Additional works carried out post initial restoration.

The major project undertaken by the previous owners was unfortunately cut short by the financial impact of Covid-19 so it wasn't 100% complete, however the major works were done.

From our initial assessment we know the car needs the heating system completing if it's to be used in cold weather. The 'Heat Exchangers' are some missing along with the pipes to connect the heat exchangers from the engine to the car and from the under floor channel to the demisters on the dash.

The seat belts fitted were static ones to get the car through an MOT test and ideally need changing to 'Inertia Real' type for comfort and accessibility, plus we also need to sort out a key for the engine bay lock as it's missing...

After that we will have a good look around the car and clean it before having a few 'shakedown' runs to find anything else that might need attention, or places we can 'improve' the overall appearance and usability of the car.


VW Bug lockThe first job was to change the engine bay lid lock, the keys were missing. I bought a new lock complete with keys from 'Just Kampers'. Delivered for 33% less than our local locksmith wanted to cut 2 keys even though we had the 'code' number to cut them... madness.

Next I made a liner for the front luggage compartment deck over the petrol tank. I bought some 12mm thick foam from our local upholstery shop, glued that to some Black Vinyl and trimmed to shape. I made sure it came over the tank so that the spare wheel rested and rubbed on that, rather than the tank itself. Total cost £17.00 (I already had the glue for sticking the foam to the vinyl). Carpeted Above shows the luggage compartment 'Before' and 'After' the new mat was fitted. It was hole punched and slipped onto the retaining studs before fitting the dashboard electrics cover so that it won't move about.

Next were the seat belts. Basically it was a simple swap, all I had to do was unbolt the old ones, bolt in the new as the fittings were already in place. I had to use a spacer to move the reel circa 35mm out from the rear seat base toward the door opening, but a choice of brackets came supplied with the seat belts so it's not an issue. Seat Belts In the image above you can see the old static belts in Black on the Left. - On the Right is a new Inertia Reel Seat Belt fitted. They are supposed to be 'Beige' but actually look more like 'Bronze' but they do match so there staying in (though I would have preferred Cream but none were available and the 'blue' were far to blue...)

Next Job replace the light bulbs for LED ones. It's important to use the correct colour bulbs when choosing LED's. Red LED's should be used behind a red lens and amber / yellow LED's behind an amber indicator lens. White LED's should not be used behind coloured lenses as they emit light at the wrong spectrum.

Details of the bulb changes are on a separate page HERE which will be updated as work progresses.

After completing all of the above I put a new set of custom mats in beige with a beige heel pad in the car to protect the carpets and fitted a rear window blind

There are still a lot of minor finishing touches required but the only major job is the heater pipework to sort out, but there is no hurry for that...

Had a 'shakedown run' today and the speedometer was not working, nor was the fuel gauge after filling the tank. Checked the speedometer drive at the left front wheel and all was correctly in place so disconnected it from the speedo head, spun the front wheel and... nothing. The cable wasn't turning at the speedo end, so a new cable was ordered.

The car has the old 'manual' type petrol gauge system where basically a wire is attached between the float in the tank and the gauge itself. Removed it completely from the car and straightened the end of the cable and it seemed to work fine. However fitting it back in the car and it stuck again. Tried removing etc. 3 times with the same result so there must be a 'kink' somewhere in the middle and you can't simply replace the inner cable.

I gave up at that point and decided to order a new one from 'Paruzzi' in the Netherlands. Will just need to be patient and wait for the parts to arrive. - Once it arrived it wasn't a straightforward swap as explained Here

The Speedometer Cable was though, a simple and easy swap. The old one was found to be damaged at the hub end once it was removed and inspected.

Further inspection and checks showed that the fan belt was badly cracked and ready to snap, the Front 'Shock Absorbers' weren't actually new as some of the bushes were perished and the standard shockers were 'bottoming' out with the lowered suspension giving a very hard ride. A new pair of shorter shock absorbers were ordered and fitted which have improved things but whilst changing them I found one of the steering arm tie rod end rubber covers is split so also need replacing. Obviously more corners were cut on the rebuild than we really expected!

Another issue I found was that a few shortcuts had been made and some crucial parts not replaced. The oil filler cap and petrol cap seals were both well past their best. The oil filler seal looked to be original to the engine and 50+ years old so that was changed for a new one.

The Petrol Filler Cap seal I didn't notice until later and that was of more concern as that appeared to be 50+ years old as well and bits of cork were breaking down and if they got into the fuel system could cause issues if they got past the filter in the fuel pump.

The replacement seal that arrived was made from a rubberised compound so would resolve the 'bits of cork' problem so I scraped the old seal out, cleaned the cap with wire wool, then electical cleaner. Old V New Seal Once it was thoroughly cleaned, I fitted the new seal and should have no further issues.

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